Match of the week

A rich jus and Ju de Vie
You’d think a rich winey sauce or jus would be the easiest thing to match with red wine but that isn’t necessarily the case as it tends to compete with it.
In this case the jus was particularly intense - accompanying a braised featherblade of beef in a fantastic dish from Gary Usher’s Elite Bistros at Home takeaway menu.
I was sent it - and a couple of other dishes* - by my pal Mike Boyne of Bin Two in Padstow together with matching wines in frustration at not being able to get together for a meal this year. The Ju de vie is from Julien Mus of Domaine de la Graveirett, a biodynamic producer in the Rhone and classified as a vin de France due to the unusual blend of merlot, marselan, grenache and mourvèdre.
Although it was 14% there was a freshness and savouriness to it that offset the sweet richness of the sauce (also due to being aged in concrete tanks rather than oak) and I was thinking that if you’d served a Napa cabernet or Barossa shiraz with it it would just have been too much.
It also went really well with a coq au vin I made the following night.(Yup, it has been a really indulgent couple of days and Christmas hasn’t even started yet. Still, we all need cheering up this year, don’t we?)
You can buy the Ju de Vie from Mike at Bin Two for £15.50.
* Braised octopus with morcilla and chickpeas with a brilliant Georgian orange wine called Teliani Valley Kakhuri No 8 and banana cake with butterscotch sauce and candied pecans with the 2017 MAD Tokaji late harvest wine both great pairings too.

Hake with pork dumplings and Côtes du Rhône
I suspect most of you know that you can drink red wine with fish these days but you may well stick to lighter reds like pinot noir. But this week’s match of the week proves you can drink a more full-bodied red if the food is robust enough.
The dish was part of fixed price menu at Breaking Bread, a pop-up restaurant on the Downs in Bristol hosted by two local restaurants, The Pony and Trap and a combined effort from Pasta Loco and Pasta Ripiena which have been closed during the Coronavirus pandemic.
As I ate with a friend who was writing a piece on the Bristol food scene we were allowed to dip into both but a dish of hake and pork belly dumpling with roasted hazelnut from The Pony was a definite highlight. Obviously the pork was one red wine-friendly element but there was also a rich deep meaty sauce which made the match with a big generous Côtes du Rhône from an enterprising co-op called Les Vignerons de Esterzargues surprisingly successful. It was the latest vintage of their Terre de Mistral (available from Buon Vino and Joseph Barnes among others in the UK) and full of vibrant fruit but not at all jammy. Just a delicious combination.
For other occasions when you can drink red wine with fish read When to pair red wine with fish

Seared cod with red wine sauce and Premier Cru Santenay
There’s still a bit of resistance to drinking red wine with fish, let alone with a white fish like cod but last week I had the perfect dish to combine with a good red burgundy.
It was prepared for us by Gordon McDermott the head of Waitrose’s very swish new Cookery School when we went for a tasting the other day and I imagine was an easy dish to make. The cod was seared then served on a bed of wilted, shredded leeks with a red wine and butter sauce that was probably made by deglazing the pan with red wine and whisking in soft butter.
It was a perfect match both with the lovely Domaine Lucien Muzard 2008 Santenay Premier Cru La Maladière (£19.99 in 20 selected branches and Waitrose Wine Direct*) which I thought tasted of autumn raspberries and with the truly delicious 2008 Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir from Merrick’s Grove (£23.99 from only 2 branches and Waitrose Wine Direct), one of the best Aussie Pinots I’ve tasted. Great for a romantic dinner for two.
* Neither of these wines seem to be on the site yet. I'll try and find out when they're coming in.
Most popular
.jpg)
My latest book

News and views
.jpg)


